Skincare Villains & Heroes
Friend or foe? That's the question you probably should be asking when you scan the ingredient list on your skincare products, given that you're bound to find some hard-to-pronounce names you know nothing about. You don't want to be potentially putting any known carcinogens on your skin, after all. But which ones are toxic—and which ones can you trust? Here are 10 toxic ingredients that could be lurking in your skincare and 10 better ones to look for.
1. Parabens
Unless your skincare product specifically labels that it's paraben-free, you're probably bound to find it lurking on the ingredient list somewhere. And that's no surprise, given that parabens help prevent mold, fungus, and parasites from growing in your cosmetics. However, there's a growing concern that once they're absorbed into the skin and body, parabens can raise the risk of breast cancer in women and testicular cancer in men.
2. Phthalates
Phthalates aren't just found in just about everything you can think of: plastics, to soften and increase flexibility; perfumes, as stabilizers; cosmetics, to act as binding agents and make products less brittle. Frighteningly enough, phthalates are known endocrine disruptors and can affect hormone levels, cause reproductive defects, and even developmental problems in children. And, as reported by the US Centers for Disease Control (CDC), phthalates were found in just about every single person.
3. Formaldehyde
Like parabens, formaldehyde is used in many skincare and cosmetic products as a preservative to prevent bacterial growth. But not only is it known to be a common irritant and potentially harmful to the immune system, but formaldehyde is also a known carcinogen, as concluded by the International Agency for Research on Cancer.
4. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate, or SLS for short, can be found in many skincare products, ranging from facial cleansers to shampoos and toothpastes. A surfactant, it's known to be a common irritant to the skin, eyes, and lungs. Even more frightening is that it can interact and mix with other chemicals to become possibly carcinogenic.
5. Triclosan
Triclosan is another endocrine disruptor that can affect thyroid and reproductive hormones. This can be particularly harmful for children, as triclosan and other endocrine-disrupting chemicals may interfere with and possibly impact puberty and fertility.
6. Oxybenzone
Oxybenzone is a popular ingredient found in chemical sunscreens. While it can help block harmful UV rays, oxybenzone is yet another endocrine-disrupting ingredient and can even cause cellular damage. It's also a common irritant and may trigger allergies or flare up skin issues.
7. Coal Tar
Even if you don't see "coal tar" explicitly listed on the ingredient list on the back of your skincare products and cosmetics, you might still be interacting with traces of it through synthetic dyes, which are often derived from petrolatum or coal tar sources. Despite being included in many products, coal tar is a known carcinogen, and you should stay as far away from it as possible.
8. Fragrance
Seeing fragrance or perfume in your cosmetics and skincare products might not raise an alarm if you're not particularly sensitive, but those who are acne-prone may want to steer clear of this ingredient. Sure, it might make your products smell nice, but it won't do any favors for your skin.
9. Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a skin lightener that, at first glance, might seem too good to be true—and it is. While this skincare ingredient can brighten dark spots and hyperpigmentation, it also permanently alters your skin's natural melanin by weakening two important proteins that keep you youthful: keratin and collagen. Plus, some people may get contact dermatitis after using hydroquinone.
10. Alcohol
You might see alcohol or ethanol listed on the ingredient list at the back of your skincare and not think twice, but if you have dry, sensitive skin, you should be paying attention. Alcohol can further zap your skin's natural moisture by stripping it of its natural oils, causing irritation and damage.
What, then, are some better, skin-loving ingredients to look for in your products? Here are our 10 ten:
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1. Niacinamide
You'll find this popular ingredient in many skincare products—and for good reason. A form of vitamin B3, niacinamide helps prevent wrinkles, improves skin elasticity, reduces inflammation, and may even brighten dark spots.
2. Hyaluronic Acid
Struggle with dry, sensitive skin? Hyaluronic acid can help, given its ability to retain moisture and rehydrate the skin. People with all skin types—dry, oily, normal, or combination—can use hyaluronic acid, and it's safe to use morning, noon, and night.
3. Glycolic Acid
A type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), glycolic acid helps exfoliate the skin by dissolving dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, clearer complexion. Not only that, but it also smooths fine wrinkles, fades dark spots, and hydrates the skin for a healthier, even-toned glow.
4. Vitamin C
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a common ingredient found in many skincare products because of its ample benefits. For one, it can help fade hyperpigmentation and sun spots. It also boosts your skin's natural radiance by reducing fine lines, redness, and inflammation for a brighter complexion.
5. Ceramides
Ceramides are lipids (fats) found in skin cells and make up around 30-40% of your epidermis, or your outermost layer. By using products that contain ceramides, you're helping to rehydrate your skin barrier and keep it moisturized, healthy, plump, and radiant.
6. Squalane
Squalane doesn't just keep your skin glowing—it works wonders for your hair, too. Plus, being non-comedogenic, it won't clog pores and is unlikely to irritate the skin, even in those who are acne-prone or deal with conditions like eczema. However, it's best to choose products where squalane is the main ingredient, and to watch out for any other not-so-great ones included on the list.
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7. Panthenol
Also known as vitamin B5, panthenol is a humectant (like hyaluronic acid) that helps keep your skin hydrated, moisturized, and radiant. It can also soothe irritation, promote wound healing, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, revealing a stronger, healthier skin barrier.
8. Green Tea Extract
You likely already know that green tea is a powerful antioxidant, but did you know it can do wonders for your skin just as it does for your body? Known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, green tea extract protects the skin against premature aging, sun damage, irritation, redness, and breakouts, giving you a soft, supple, and clear complexion.
9. Retinol
A form of vitamin A, retinol is a popular anti-aging ingredient that helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, target dullness and loss of firmness, and may even prevent breakouts. If you're thinking of introducing retinol to your routine, however, make sure to start off with a gentler concentration first.
10. Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is known best for its hydrating and healing properties, soothing dry, irritated skin, and providing relief for those with skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea, acne, and psoriasis. It also works wonders for calming sun-damaged skin.
