Fashion Forward Since Forever
Many styles of dresswear have turned up time and time again through the ages, so it's hard to say how dresses have evolved. Certainly, the general freedom of self-expression and movement is one of the best evolutions of modern dresswear, but the silhouettes and styles we wear daily have a history that potentially dates back to the written word.
1. Bias Cut
The bias cut made its debut in the 1920s, and the official design is credited to Madeleine Vionnet. Fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle to give the clothing more stretch and fluidity, giving the wearer a more accentuated figure.
AnonymousUnknown author State Library of Queensland, Australia on Wikimedia
2. Bodycon Silhouette
The bodycon silhouette first came onto the scene in the 80s. Azzedine Alaia, or the “King of Cling,” is the visionary behind this form-fitting dress. However, the creator of the style is typically attributed to Herve Leger, a student of Alaia, due to Alaia’s longstanding feud with Vogue Editor-In-Chief, Ana Wintour.
3. Cap Sleeves
Dating back to the early 19th century, the cap sleeve was created as a solution to maintain modesty with more freedom to move around. The style is seen as graceful, sophisticated, and feminine, and it likes to show up now and again through our ever-changing fashion cycles.
4. Drop Waists
Famously associated with the “flapper” style, the relaxed fit of a drop waist dress became a symbol of liberation. The drop waist has reappeared through the decades, especially in the 60s mod scene.
5. Empire Silhouette
The empire strikes back! This style, repopularized by television shows like Bridgerton, has a fitted bodice that ends below the bust. This style meant to lengthen the look of a torso, as the skirts were long and loose, and typically not supported by petticoats.
6. Funnel Sleeves
Funnel sleeves were especially popular in the 16th and 17th centuries. While traditionally found on religious garments, the upper classes of the time began incorporating them into their finery.
7. High Necks
High necklines have existed for practical use since the Middle Ages, but began to have stylistic wear among European aristocracy during the Renaissance. The 19th century’s focus on modesty saw a resurgence of this particular neckline, but since then, it has remained a popular option for sophistication and even androgyny.
8. Hobble Skirt
Inspired by the kimono, the hobble skirt was a short-lived fashion trend from the early 20th century. Unlike a pencil skirt, which is straight from hip to hem, the hobble skirt narrowed at the knees, making it nearly impossible to take long strides when wearing it.
9. Hoop Skirts
Used across various periods, the hoop skirt was a cage-like mechanism that held a woman’s skirts away from her legs. While it had practical wear, such as keeping one's legs cool or preventing tripping, the hoop skirt grew to enormous sizes in the mid-19th century.
AnonymousUnknown author on Wikimedia
10. Hourglass Silhouette
The long-desired shape that women are told they want to achieve. The hourglass figure has been spoken about through ancient civilizations up to modern day. This style was typically achieved by a corset, the goal being to always reduce waist size while accentuating the bust and hip area.
11. Layered Skirts
Also known as tiered skirts, this popular style came about around the Middle Ages, particularly for noblewomen. The skirts typically touched the ground, but modern-day renditions of the tiered skirt were much shorter. The 1980s “rah-rah” skirt was short and flouncy, popular among teenagers at the time.
12. Modesty Lengths
Modesty practices differ from religion, social norms, geographical regions, and cultural values. Before the 1900s, women wore long clothes and typically covered their arms and necklines to “avoid temptation.” While shorter hemlines were widely accepted in the early 20th century, it wasn’t until the 1920s that we saw women’s knees.
13. Mod Silhouette
Reminiscent of the flapper style, the mod silhouette emphasized clean lines, geometric patterns, and bold colours. The style is closely linked with the British rock bands, but the American Motown scene also played a part in the popularity of this style.
David Merrett from Daventry, England on Wikimedia
14. Petticoats
Petticoats, or slips, are a lightweight undergarment used to achieve a bigger volume for skirts. Typically worn over the frame of a hoop skirt, petticoats were also allowed to be seen in certain fashion styles. Today, petticoats are still used for shaping, but also provide warmth to the wearer.
15. Power Silhouette
Power dressing came into play in the 1970s and 80s, when women really started entering the workplace. The silhouette took inspiration from menswear, hence the popularity of the shoulder pad, to give an image of authority. Today, the power suit is used more as a turn of phrase, as individuals should feel powerful no matter what they wear.
16. Prairie Dresses
Prairie dresses are a modest style of dress that gained popularity among American pioneers in the 19th century. Typically homemade, these dresses were a staple of western style, and were worn to dances, church, or for travel.
17. Puffed Sleeves
Diverting from funnel sleeves, puffy sleeves started coming into fashion in the late 19th century. What started as a simple addition of height in the shoulder area exploded into a large pouf that maintained its fullness from shoulder to elbow. The popularity of this look is likely based on the resurgence of the full gowns of the 1930s, but the fad lasted less than a decade.
in pastel from Canada on Wikimedia
18. “Robe de Style”
An alternative to the 1920s chemise dress, the “robe de style” blended past and present. Still featuring the drop waist style, this particular dress still had a fitted bodice and fuller skirts, occasionally supported by petticoats.
19. S-Shape Silhouette
Particularly popular in the early years of the 20th century, the S-shape silhouette had a forward-leaning bust and pushed back hips, giving the wearer an exaggerated hourglass shape.
Unknown authorUnknown author on Wikimedia
20. Robe à la Francaise
Also known as the sack-back gown, this style of dress was popular in 18th-century Europe. It featured pleats at the back of the dress, which fell from between the shoulder blades to the floor, and had an open-front gown to showcase the petticoat. This style also featured elbow-length sleeves that ended with a scalloped ruffle.
